A Chinatown Noodle Dynasty Returns in Style

Hwa Yuan Szechuan, the restaurant that gave New York cold sesame noodles, resurfaces with a menu that charms rather than overwhelms.

I had eaten approximately 300 miles of cold sesame noodles before I knew they had a story. If I’d thought about them at all, I would have reflected that everything has a story, but I didn’t. Back in the 1980s, when I came to New York, they were simply a thing you had to order with Chinese takeout because somebody always wanted them, even though they usually tasted like leftover spaghetti with S...