Beer-battered ‘tofish’: welcome to London’s first all-vegan pub

The Spread Eagle in east London marks a cultural shift towards a plant-based lifestyle

Four years ago, Meriel Armitage was so anxious about using the word vegan on her menu she considered dropping it altogether. On Friday night, shortly after dusk, the 34-year-old opened the doors of London’s first 100% vegan pub, its sales pitch very much based on an absolute boycott of animal products.Standing by the freshly polished bar, as the first customers arrived into the dimly lit room where all food, drinks, fixtures and fittings are purely plant-based, Armitage smiled: “Back then, we...